Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Accurate and true
The 99-270 bit set I purchased took a little getting used to. When I first opened the package and studied the profiles, there was no way these bits would match. Or so I thought. After some practice cuts and a little trial and error I was on my way. The bits are of course Freud quality all the way. Mine unfortunately were assembled incorrectly from the factory. (4 Stars) One of the cutting heads on one of the bits was installed up side down. This made for an interesting first cut. After correcting the assembly error, I had no problem making all the parts for a divided light window. You will however, have to use mortises to assemble your project. Overall these are a great addition to my Freud collection. Solid as expected! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-11/16-inch diameter, bead style, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 18,000 RPM

Reviews (1)

poor package
I dont understandamazon peopledont have, the right pacage for this bit, because the bid are bery destroyed. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• One Year Warranty
• 5 amps; 10,000 rpm motor
• Six cutting depths: 0, 10, 20, A, B, and max
• Antislip rubber pins for better operating control
• Adjustable fence flips for 45-degree setting

Reviews (10)

You do get what you pay for
Almost since the moment this thing came out of the box, I wished I had spent the extra money to get the Porter Cable 557. As other reviewers have pointed out in their colorful fashion, the 2 main failure points of this tool in my opinion are: 1. The fence very poorly designed. While trying to buscuit boards for a table top, the fence (which I thought I had tightened to the point of near over tightening) gradually slipped across 7 buiscuits, each cutting at it's own special height. Very dissapointing! So I re-aligned it and tried again on scrap. This time really reefing the fence lock down. Slipped again. Thrird time I used some channel locks for leverage to tighten the fence. Worked fine with no slippage. #2 problem: The dust port (as mentioned in other reviews also) is awful. Cutting red oak, ash, and cherry with the bag *OFF* allowing material to free flow (since it was plugging up with the bag on) the unit would only get through 1-2 cuts without jamming up. The problem was a baffle in the middle of the dust port. While it is probably there for strength, it catches the shavings and proceeds to completely block the chute every time! I solved this one with a rotary tool and cut the baffle out and it works fine now.The other more minor complaints like the noise and ergonomics are minor compared to these major problems. There is no easy solution I can see for the fence problem. Save your coins a little longer and buy the Porter Cable. Just don't buy the PC biscuits for either machine as they have over a 40% failure in the batch of 1000 I just bought!!

Good Basic Jointer
I purchased this as a first plate jointer to get some experience with how they can be used in my projects.I haven't experienced the issues with noise that several reviewers have noticed.Considering many of these jointers can go for double the money, and that my projects are relatively basic, this seemed to be a good match.I think this is a great unit for beginners or as a backup unit.

It's ok for the money
The noise is aweful. There's something to be said by doing things silently with fine handtools. Then there's doing things with good power tools and smooth running motors. Then there's my sons push mower that ejects plastic balls within plastic that clicks and clatters. This motor is maybe more annoying than a plastic mower.
It does the basic job, it's cheap. If you're not doing many joints or are sticking to the basics it's fine maybe give it another star for limited use. Or get a 557 for twice as much, do more, and not be annoyed by that aweful motor. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Plate Joiners    4. (Jointers)    5. (Biscuit Joiners)    6. (Biscut)    7. (Cutters)   

Features

• Perma-SHIELD coating reduces friction
• 12-inch, 60-tooth combination, 1-inch arbor
• Perfect balance between ripping & crosscutting
• Large gullets & flat top teeth for ripping
• High tooth count & ATB ground teeth needed for crosscutting

Reviews (18)

Excellent combo blade!
I've been using the chrome version of this blade on my old (ancient) Jet contractor's saw for about 3 years and couldn't be happier.It leaves a super-smooth, glue-ready surface when ripping soft- or hardwood stock, and equally fine surfaces on crosscuts.My saw is tuned properly, I use a link belt to reduce vibration, and for ripping always use a featherboard just in front of the blade to maintain proper position of the stock.

I showed this blade off at a recent woodworker's gathering of about 30 people, and they were definitely impressed.Can't imagine that it'd be possible to get a much better surface than the LU84 provides.On my humble 1.5HP saw, though, I don't use it for ripping really thick stock.Firmly believe a good 24-tooth ripping blade is the way to go there.

LU84R011 blade
I purchased this blade a few weeks ago and put it on my new Hitachi C10FL table saw. I've always had good experience with Freud products and this blade isn't much of an exception. It is a hefty piece of steel and overall well made. The carbide teeth are THICK which will allow many resharpenings. It is a GOOD blade, but NOT "excellent". For general purpose use that will give acceptable results it certainly lives up to its manufacturer ratings for various types of cuts in different material. A few important points to note, however. There is splintering on the end of a cross cut, I suspect this is mostly due to the flat top grind raker tooth as my "low budget" Lowes bought Freud combo blade with all ATB teeth leaves a cleaner cross cut. The Teflon coating seems to be more of a hindrance than a blessing. It is not perfectly flat in all places, and seems to clog the anti vibration slots in the blade body. Also, the coating has worn off where the arbor washers contact it - I carefully sanded the coating away in this area. The blade does not vibrate at all, and I feel stiffeners aren't necessary though they can't hurt I'm sure. Although I am not sorry I bought this blade, I will be purchasing either a Forrest blade or two separate blades - rip and crosscut in order to get the perfect result for each type of cut. My recommendation would be to go with the LU84M011 blade instead - doesn't have the unhelpful Teflon coating and is ten dollars cheaper.

Really impressed
Just received this blade and mounted it in my Ryobi BT3100.
Using it to cut 3/4 solid oak, 3/4 oak veneer plywood, pine, both cross cut and ripping, it's hard to imagine anything better. Quiet, splinter free. Now I want a couple more for my chop saw and a spare. Everything I've purchased from Freud has been a worthwhile investment. And NO this has not been a paid commercial :-). ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Miter Saw Blades    5. 12-inch Blades    6. (Mitre Saws)    7. (Mitersaws)    8. (Mitresaws)   

Features

• Laser cut arbor for accurate blade rotation reducing vibration and premature wear
• Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade warp
• Laser cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up keeping the cut true and straight
• Durable micrograin titanium carbide for extreme durability, razor-sharp cuts, and long life
• Tri-metal shock resistant brazing allows carbide tips to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability

Reviews (1)

Amazing Blade
I bought this saw blade for my table saw because my saw is small and somewhat underpowered but as soon as I put the blade on my saw I saw an increase in power.To test the blade I cut 3/4" red oak and 3/4" red oak plywood and all I can say is WOW!The cuts were super smooth and there was no tearout in the plywood.I used it to rip, crosscut, and cut miters and every cut is amazingly smooth.I highly recomend this blade for any smaller or underpowered table saw. ... Read more

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (8)

Flute up spiral bits create a perfect surface
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

Upward Spiral Bits create perfect surfaces
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

What's up with a spiral bit ?
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• 5/8 inch arbor
• 3-5/32 inch diameter
• Set of 10 shims from .004 inch to .020 inch

Reviews (2)

how to identify your shims
The shims are exactly what you would expect. I used a metal marking permanent marker (Sharpie Metal) to write each shim's thickness right onto the shim. Once that's done you are good to go and never have to measure again.

Well made , exactly what I would expect from Freud.
The Freud shim set is precise, and is anodized with a dark material to prevent corrosion.There are four .004, two .008 two .012 and two .020 shims in the package. They seem flat and true.The only problem I havewith this set is that they all look the same.Can you tell the differencebetween .008 and .012? I can.... with a micrometer. If you don't have one,you will have trouble telling the shims apart. There are some other setsthat use color coding. These might be easier for some people to use. I likethe fact that there are extra shims of each thickness (particularly the.004), since they could be damaged easily. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Table Saw Blades    5. Dado    6. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 3/8-inch diameter, 1-inch height, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Reviews (2)

Its the real deal
As the previous reviewer said, this bit comes sharp and stays sharp.I have enjoyed super smooth cuts in flat sawn red oak, quarter sawn white oak, poplar, pine, and walnut.I can't say enough how good this bit is for flush trimming both free hand and in a table.

I highly recommend it!

Keeps going, and going, and going........
And still doesn't need sharpening!!I have used this bit a lot and it is still sharp and doesn't seem like it will ever die!!Fabulous!!5 Stars! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-1/2-inch diameter, 30-degree angle, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Reviews (4)

Glue joint bit excellent for aligning board surfaces.
This glue joint bit is excellent for aligning board surfaces. It also enhances the surface area moderately, thereby adding some strength. For further strength, use it in conjunction with biscuits. I had bought this Freud reversible glue up joint bit as part of a cabinet set.
The problem is getting the glue seams on multiple boards to sit flush. Normally when clamping, one board might sit a little higher, or lower than the one next to it. Clamping is of course an answer, but is only effective if you clamp the heck out of nearly the entire surface.
If you are fortunate enough to own a huge drum or belt sanding stationary machine, you enjoy the advantage of being able to pass your table top through the sander to level the edges. Since most of us don't have that advantage, it would be reassuring to know that the irregular face of the bit forces the alignment of the individual boards.
You must take the time to get the registration right. To prep to use this bit, is to plane the boards, all at the same time, to a final even thickness, and then used the reversible glue up joint bit, you would wind up with a table top that would only need a light sanding.
From what I see, most people are considering this bit to be an alternative to biscuit joinery. Although I admit that you are slightly increasing the amount of board surface to glue up, it is not really significant enough to make a substantial difference in the strength of the joint. It appears that the finger joint bit would do the job of increasing surface area a little better.
The advantage of the Frued glue joint bit, is that it will give you a perfect alignment of the boards. In plain words, a flat top without irregular seam ridges to try and sand out.

In conclusion, use this glue up joint bit to align your boards, and mildly enhance the glue surface. Adding biscuits would give you even more strength.
Hope this helps.

Nice joint, a little hard to set up
This bit is nice, however, it was a little bit hard to set up.Once set up, it was very clean and precise over the entire length of panel.When I raised the panel after glue up, the joint was invisible.No glue lines visible.That is great.It also produced a jointed like edge on the mating surfaces after routing.Very nice.

Practical Considerations
The concept is appealing. Treat your edges with this bit and glue them together. More glue surface means a stronger joint.

The problem is that one must be exact with the positioning of the bit...and I mean exact. If your're off by a hair, your error is mutlplied twice by the same error on the other board. In addition, the cut of the bit takes off about 1/8" off each board. It also would have helped if the company published the center point of the bit. I assumed it was 1/2 the overall height.

To be fair, this is a well made bit with plenty of heft. Running it around 18000 rpm produced the best performance. If you are interested in this type of edge glueing you might also want to take a look at the company's other offerings, particularly the finger joint edge glue bit. This bit does not need to be exacrly centered but raised or lowered 7/32" to provide a match. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty
• Thick micrograin carbide tips
• Kickback reducing design
• Produce dados or grooves from 1/4 to 13/16 inch in 1/16 inch increments
• Includes wooden storage case

Reviews (123)

Freud is top shelf in my book
Excellent tool with superb craftsmanship.Freud is top quality in my book.

I recommend paying extra for better
I used to do all of my ratteting and dado cutting with various size straight/rabbet router bits and a homemade jig/guide fence system.I figured I'd bite the bullet and buy a dado blade.After doing some research and getting over the sticker shock of the average $200-$250 price range for most dado sets, I figured that I go for the SD208 for only $90.I figured that since it is from Freud, it can't be all that bad, no matter how much cheaper it is than the other models.Overall, I think the SD208 is a good buy COMPARED to all of the other dado sets and their prices of 2-3 times more than the SD208.More specifically, here are my thoughts:

POSITIVE:

1) The storage/carrying case is great.Durable plastic with an arbor-like post to mount the blades on.

2)Price.As I said, this blade is a comparatively good deal compared to other sets in the $200-$250 price range.

3)Shims are included.From what I've been told, some sets don't include shims.I can't verify that, but this set does indeed include shims.I believe there are 5-7 differenly sized shims.

NEGATIVES

1)My biggest gripe with this set is that the bottom of the cuts are far from being flat.Whether using the outerblades by themselves, or using them with different configurations of chippers, each cut bottom has multiple ridges/blade marks.

2)Shims aren't size labeled.Freud gives a great little chart showing what size chippers and shims are needed for differentcuts.However, the shims aren't labeled at all.They are merely blank circular cuts of metal.However, as any woodworker knows, you should always run your own test cuts for any job...so I'm in no way livid with Freud.It would just be a little nicety if they could label the shims.

As I said, I think the SD208 set is comparatively a great blade for its price, when viewd against other sets.However, I would recommend not skimping on price and upgraded to one of the higher-end Freuds or a Forrest set.

Try to get it sharpened
I run a small woodworking shop and I purchased the Dial-A-Width Dado.I think it is a great dado, but it has a -12 degree grind on it.Every sharpening shop in Denver cannot sharpen it without buying an expensive computer program for their machines and they will not buy it unless they can make enough off the sharpening to pay for it.I called Freud about having them sharpen it and they said they are not in the sharpening business.Buyer beware. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Table Saw Blades    5. Dado    6. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Works as long as you slide the bit
It cuts the slot, but you have to move the bit along the work to get the full width of the biscuit. This makes sense since biscuit routers have very large diameter bits (~6") and this bit is only about 2" in diameter.

I'm using it to cut repetitive slots on my router table on small pieces. I made a jig to hold the wood and some stop blocks and it works fine. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Thin kerf uses less power
• Kickback reducing design
• Perma-SHIELD coating
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (2)

Smooth as Silk
I finally wore out the Freud 80-tooth thin kerf blade on my power mitre saw.It took 8 years of general use - including several solid oak floor installations - to do it.Without hesitation, I purchased the Freud TKR806 to replace it. This blade cuts oak as effortlessly as pine, leaving a cut so smooth it shines! Its also very quiet.I have Freud blades on my radial arm and table saw and couldn't be happier with their performance. Highly recommended!

Jointable Edges
The Freud 80 tooth blade does an excellent job in my Jet Tablesaw.Very nice smooth cut.The stabilized blade is much quieter than the 28 tooth blade that came with the saw too.The edge is so nice that I don't even bother to joint the edge before gluing. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Miter Saw Blades    5. 10-inch Blades    6. (Mitre Saws)    7. (Mitersaws)    8. (Mitresaws)    9. Table Saw Blades    10. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Great quality
I'm slowly going through and replacing many of my cutting tools with Freud products.Every Freud saw blade and router bit has held its edge better than other maker's products.Freud tools cost more, but since I get to leave them on the saw longer, it's worth it to me.I wish they made drill bits! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/2-inch diameter, 1-inch cut depth, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/2-inch diameter,14-degree angle 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation at speeds over 22,000 RPM

Reviews (2)

This is a great bit
I used this bit in a 2.25hp router (and Porter-Cable guide bushing) to make some dovetails with a jig.Cuts in quartersawn white oak were super smooth, with hardly any tear-out.I also used this bit in a router table setup, again with a 2.25hp router, and the cuts were just as impressive.

Overall this is a very high quality bit at a very good price.I highly recommend it!

Freud dovetail bit, 1/2" shank
What can I say?? Fantastic bit, extremely sharp, cut through redquartersawn oak with no chip out at the ends - One of the nicest bits I'veused. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 5/8-inch carbide, 45-degree angle, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Reviews (2)

45 Degree's on cabinet frames
If this were a tiny bit bigger height wise, it would make a very accurate edge for meeting 45's on outside corners of custom cabinets or furniture.The trick is to clamp another piece of stock behind the stile for a bering guide.As it is listed, I can't tell if this particular 22.5 is tall enough.

Freud 40-101 22-1/2 Degree Chamfer Router Bit with 1/2" shan
I would like to know if this item can be purchased with a 1/4" shank. I could use one right away if this is availble. Please e-mail me at Bloudinhhi@aol.com. Thanks ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/8-inch diameter, 3/8-inch cut length, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with Titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Precision machined for best results
• Premium high speed steel
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Jointers    2. Knives    3. (Knife)    4. Blades    5. Planers    6. Knife    7. (Planners)    8. (Plainers)    9. (Surface Planers)   

Features

• Laser cut arbor for accurate blade rotation reducing vibration and premature wear
• Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade warp
• Laser cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up keeping the cut true and straight
• Durable micrograin titanium carbide for extreme durability, razor-sharp cuts, and long life
• Tri-metal shock resistant brazing allows carbide tips to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability

Reviews (1)

Sweet little devil
I have had really good luck with Diablo 7.25" blades on my DeWalt circular saw.The thin kerf really seems to make a difference: these are really easy to push through the material.Nice clean cuts.And they clean up pretty easily, too.I've used the 40T and 24T blades with good results. ... Read more