Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Great quality
I'm slowly going through and replacing many of my cutting tools with Freud products.Every Freud saw blade and router bit has held its edge better than other maker's products.Freud tools cost more, but since I get to leave them on the saw longer, it's worth it to me.I wish they made drill bits! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Multi-profile bit & 99-512 panel bit, wood case
• Five piece set with perfecta bit
• 39 molding patterns
• Use with1/2-inch shank table mounted router, 3/4-inch stock
• Includes reversible glue joint bit, raised panel bit, rail & stile set

Reviews (1)

Freud 95-100-512 5-Piece door panel kit.
Made panel doors from red oak and the rail and stile and panel raiser bits turned out a professional product with no splitting, which is common in red oak. I run a 3.5 hp variable speed router mounted in a table. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. Router Bits   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Cuts great
OK it's a router bit. All I can say is that it cuts great and I have never had any trouble with the Frued bits. I run a custom furniture shop and all the tools get a workout. So far all the Frued router bits have held an edge well and I would recomend them to anyone. It just isn't worth killing a $10,000 custom bed for the $15 difference in price between the cheap and quality. I am sure that everyone feels the same about thier work... Or, they should. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-1/2-inch diameter, 1/2-inch radius, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Reviews (1)

Great quality
I'm slowly going through and replacing many of my cutting tools with Freud products.Every Freud saw blade and router bit has held its edge better than other maker's products.Freud tools cost more, but since I get to leave them on the saw longer, it's worth it to me.I wish they made drill bits! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Thick micrograin carbide tips
• Kickback reducing design
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Shaper Cutters    4. (Knives)    5. (Blades)   

Features

• Sheer angle design for clean cutting
• Micro grain carbide for clean cut and durability
• Anti-kickback design for increased safety
• Perma shield coating keeps bit running cool
• Precision balanced for smooth chatter free cuts

Subjects:  1. Routers    2. Router Bits   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (2)

Its the real deal
As the previous reviewer said, this bit comes sharp and stays sharp.I have enjoyed super smooth cuts in flat sawn red oak, quarter sawn white oak, poplar, pine, and walnut.I can't say enough how good this bit is for flush trimming both free hand and in a table.

I highly recommend it!

Keeps going, and going, and going........
And still doesn't need sharpening!!I have used this bit a lot and it is still sharp and doesn't seem like it will ever die!!Fabulous!!5 Stars! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Fits the Freud FT2000E, as well as many other popular routers
• Micro-adjustment feature makes set-up a snap

Reviews (1)

Adjustability Bad
Having recently purchased a FT2000, I bought the Edge Guide attachment as well, Out of the box, the finish appeared good, but when I tried to actually run the adjustment nut in or out, I realized something was wrong with the fence, it WASN'T seated in the slot, it was riding on top of the slot. This was due to the fact that the fence is stamped steel, not cast aluminum or something similar. After an hour with a file, I ground down the edges of the fence where they fit tightly into the slot in the guide it was designed for. While it works well enough now, I'll be buying a Micro Fence soon. By the way, the router itself is great! Added 5 days later: The fence is suprisingly tight after
I filed it down. I approached a piece of hickory today with the router/fence combination, and to my suprise, it held up to the task, but I'll still buy a micro fence within a week. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Routers   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-3/8-inch diameter, 1/4-inch radius, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with Titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (8)

Flute up spiral bits create a perfect surface
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

Upward Spiral Bits create perfect surfaces
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

What's up with a spiral bit ?
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Chips not burnt dust
I like router bits that produce chips. This one does that. I don't like bits that burn when you stop for a moment--this one is pretty good about not burning too. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Laser cut blade bodies and expansion slots
• Kickback reducing design
• Tri-metal brazing
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (6)

Decent Blade for crosscutting and plywood
I'd give this a 4.5 if I could.I only rates a 4 for crosscutting.It does a nice job, but nothing outstanding.For sheetgoods, however, it makes extremely nice cuts without any tearout.I've cut baltic birch plywood, MDF, MDO and perfect cuts every time.For these, I'd give it a 5.

Dang that's sweet!
I put this blade on my Craftsman radial arm saw and it completely
changed the way I feel about that saw.Now the thing cuts
like a hot knife through butter.The cross cuts leave end
grain so smooth you'd swear you were feeling a sanded surface
with the grain.Ok, maybe not that smooth, but still, pretty
darn smooth.I haven't tried any other fancy or expensive
blades, but this blade put my old cross cutting blades to
shame.Highly recommended.

Cuts great but...
This blade makes cuts as smooth as glass and does not tend to splinter wood as some other blades do. The only problem is that sometimes it leaves red marks from the tefon on the piece of wood after it is cut. Makes you wonder if it is worth the exta cash. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Miter Saw Blades    5. 10-inch Blades    6. (Mitre Saws)    7. (Mitersaws)    8. (Mitresaws)    9. Table Saw Blades    10. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Precision machined for best results
• Enables you to use larger bore cutters on your shaper
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Shapers    4. Shaper Attachments   

Features

• Includes attractive wooden storage box
• 15-piece set with 1/4 inch shank
• Cuts all composition materials, plywood, hardwood, and soft wood
• Solid carbide or carbide tipped
• Offers a variety of useful bits from V grooving to flush trimming to chamfering and dovetailing

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. Router Bits   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 5/8-inch diameter, 1-1/4-inch cut depth, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design for safe bit use
• Bit design makes glass doors look as good from the back as the front
• Micro grain carbide for razor sharp cuts
• Non-stick Perma-SHIELD coating reduces gumming, rusting and corrosion
• Precision computer balanced bits for extreme accuracy

Subjects:  1. Routers    2. Router Bits   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/2-inch diameter, 2-inch cut depth, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• 1-1/3-inch diameter, 1/4-inch radius, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM
• Impervious to chemical attack

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)