Features

• Rosewood body and brass trim
• Hardened diamond fixed bases

Reviews (3)

Where is the Square in Try Square?
First thing I did when I recieved this was to test it for square using the mark - flip - mark method. I skipped the third step because after the flip it was so obviously out of square!

Absolutely worthless in my opinion.Who wants a 90.5 degree Try Square?

The only reason I gave it one star is because I didn't see the entry for 0 stars.

Looks nice, but not square
I double-, triple- and quadruple-checked against other squares and against itself (using the "draw a line and flip it" technique).Mine was off by over a 1/16 of an inch over its length.It was packed well and the shipping box was in excellent shape, so I'm sure that shipping damage didn't cause the inaccuracy.Also, it had a serious burr on the end of the blade where it had obviously been stamped out.I'll give it an extra star for the pretty handle, but it's definitely not the quality I expected.I returned it.

Great square
I ordered this along with a Starett combination square.They are both wonderful. I checked them against each other, and they are dead on. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Measuring & Layout Tools    4. Squares   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-1/2-inch diameter, 25/32-inch radius, 3-3/16-inch length
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty
• Thick micrograin carbide tips
• Kickback reducing design
• Produce dados or grooves from 1/4 to 13/16 inch in 1/16 inch increments
• Includes storage case

Reviews (123)

Freud is top shelf in my book
Excellent tool with superb craftsmanship.Freud is top quality in my book.

I recommend paying extra for better
I used to do all of my ratteting and dado cutting with various size straight/rabbet router bits and a homemade jig/guide fence system.I figured I'd bite the bullet and buy a dado blade.After doing some research and getting over the sticker shock of the average $200-$250 price range for most dado sets, I figured that I go for the SD208 for only $90.I figured that since it is from Freud, it can't be all that bad, no matter how much cheaper it is than the other models.Overall, I think the SD208 is a good buy COMPARED to all of the other dado sets and their prices of 2-3 times more than the SD208.More specifically, here are my thoughts:

POSITIVE:

1) The storage/carrying case is great.Durable plastic with an arbor-like post to mount the blades on.

2)Price.As I said, this blade is a comparatively good deal compared to other sets in the $200-$250 price range.

3)Shims are included.From what I've been told, some sets don't include shims.I can't verify that, but this set does indeed include shims.I believe there are 5-7 differenly sized shims.

NEGATIVES

1)My biggest gripe with this set is that the bottom of the cuts are far from being flat.Whether using the outerblades by themselves, or using them with different configurations of chippers, each cut bottom has multiple ridges/blade marks.

2)Shims aren't size labeled.Freud gives a great little chart showing what size chippers and shims are needed for differentcuts.However, the shims aren't labeled at all.They are merely blank circular cuts of metal.However, as any woodworker knows, you should always run your own test cuts for any job...so I'm in no way livid with Freud.It would just be a little nicety if they could label the shims.

As I said, I think the SD208 set is comparatively a great blade for its price, when viewd against other sets.However, I would recommend not skimping on price and upgraded to one of the higher-end Freuds or a Forrest set.

Try to get it sharpened
I run a small woodworking shop and I purchased the Dial-A-Width Dado.I think it is a great dado, but it has a -12 degree grind on it.Every sharpening shop in Denver cannot sharpen it without buying an expensive computer program for their machines and they will not buy it unless they can make enough off the sharpening to pay for it.I called Freud about having them sharpen it and they said they are not in the sharpening business.Buyer beware. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Table Saw Blades    5. Dado    6. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 5/8-inch diameter, 1/16-inch radius, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Reviews (1)

Great quality
I'm slowly going through and replacing many of my cutting tools with Freud products.Every Freud saw blade and router bit has held its edge better than other maker's products.Freud tools cost more, but since I get to leave them on the saw longer, it's worth it to me.I wish they made drill bits! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 3/16-inch diameter, 1/2-inch cut depth, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Precision machined for best results
• Premium high speed steel
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Jointers    2. Knives    3. (Knife)    4. Blades    5. Planers    6. Knife    7. (Planners)    8. (Plainers)    9. (Surface Planers)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Cuts great
OK it's a router bit. All I can say is that it cuts great and I have never had any trouble with the Frued bits. I run a custom furniture shop and all the tools get a workout. So far all the Frued router bits have held an edge well and I would recomend them to anyone. It just isn't worth killing a $10,000 custom bed for the $15 difference in price between the cheap and quality. I am sure that everyone feels the same about thier work... Or, they should. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Industrial grade abrasive disks with 100% cotton backing
• Assortment Pack contains five each of 80, 120, 150 and 180 grit disks
• For Freud CD010 calibration and sanding disk

Subjects:  1. Sanders    2. Discs    3. Sand Paper    4. (Sandpaper)   

Features

• 2+2, 3-1/2-inch raised panel bit
• Two wings to do the main cutting of the profile
• Two wings to cut the top part of the profile

Reviews (4)

Glass Smooth, Glass Smooth, Glass Smooth
I bought this bit as part of Freuds cabinet making set. I hooked it up to a table that I have Bosch's 3 1/4hp plunge router mounted to. I forgot about the necessity of setting the speed slower to accommodate larger bits and sent the 3/4" piece of oak sailing through at the full setting. Out came a silky smooth panel. It didn't chip, sputter, kick, wobble, or even slow down the router. I wonder what it would be like if it wasn't a brand new bit with a fresh edge on it. Anyhow, I use the bit now at a slower speed setting, and make multiple passes.
Freuds cabinet making set is so well made, that their is little motivation to pick up a shaper. Shapers are known for 10,000 RPMs, thereby creating panels in a single pass that are smooth.
I have never bought a bad Freud bit. Them and Whiteside are my pride and joys. I also recommend picking up an inexpensive carbide tipped set on eBay that are imported. You can get a large selection of profiles and types for the cost of a couple of bits. When making painted moldings for example, you don't need the ultimate in sheen on the wood surface. Although with the dollar conversion and the daily monetary needs overseas, it is amazing how much quality can be produced for such a little bit of money.
Freud and Whiteside are the best, although their are several manufacturers, such as CMT and Viper that are quality bits as well. This Freud cabinet making bit is worthy of your best projects. Buy it you won't be sorry.

A "bit" dangerous
I couldn't wait to finally be able to use this expensive bit that has sat in my Raised Panel kit for years now. I followed all the rules. I purchased a high end router table and installed a 2 1/2HP variable speed router as recommended. It took about 12 passes to safely accomplish a single profile on one edge of a 10" piece of poplar. Even with the smallest adjustments, there were still some break out and kick-back. I'll go back to my nice safe vertical raised panel bit. This bit looks great, very large, and it will end up being a very expensive display piece in my router bit collection. Stick to the vertical bits. I was very disappointed in this one, and it's definitely not worth the money.

Great bit
This panel raising bit does a great job of cutting smooth and beautiful raised panels.I purchased this bit as part of a Freud cabinet door building set, and I have been thorougly impressed.The quality of all 3 of the bits is excellent.My Freud bits are the standard by which I measure all other router bits.I've worn out a cheap set of router bits and returned a medium quality set of bits due to their inferior quality.The quality of the Freud bits is well worth the cost.I will be buying more Freud panel raising bits.

The bit has a very large diameter and required some ingenuity to use in my homemade router table.

Make sure you realize that this bit cuts too deeply to allow you to make 3/4" thick panels that are flush with the frame. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Thick micrograin carbide tips
• Kickback reducing design
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Shaper Cutters    4. (Knives)    5. (Blades)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (2)

45 Degree's on cabinet frames
If this were a tiny bit bigger height wise, it would make a very accurate edge for meeting 45's on outside corners of custom cabinets or furniture.The trick is to clamp another piece of stock behind the stile for a bering guide.As it is listed, I can't tell if this particular 22.5 is tall enough.

Freud 40-101 22-1/2 Degree Chamfer Router Bit with 1/2" shan
I would like to know if this item can be purchased with a 1/4" shank. I could use one right away if this is availble. Please e-mail me at Bloudinhhi@aol.com. Thanks ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/4-inch diameter, 1-inch cut depth, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (4)

Spiral bits create a perfect surface
This review is for upward spiral bits, but the same information applies for a downward spiral bit. Downward spiral bits are designed especially for work where you want to go completely through the material.
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.
***I have come back to add one more comment to this review. When I just said, "use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped straight double flute bits" I doubly advise you to do that. Even with the great results these upward spiral bits give you, I just broke my third 1/4"-1/4" shaft upward spiral bit. I have to conclude that the additional brittleness that an all carbide bit gives you, leads to an ease of breaking that you will not have with a standard bit. Of course the 3/8" and 1/2" with the 1/2" shaft are going to be a lot stronger, but I will be reserving my use of the 1/4" shaft upward spiral bit only for the most exposed surfaces.

Spiral bits create a perfect surface
This review is for upward spiral bits, but the same information applies for a downward spiral bit. Downward spiral bits are designed especially for work where you want to go completely through the material.
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.
***I have come back to add one more comment to this review. When I just said, "use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped straight double flute bits" I doubly advise you to do that. Even with the great results these upward spiral bits give you, I just broke my third 1/4"-1/4" shaft upward spiral bit. I have to conclude that the additional brittleness that an all carbide bit gives you, leads to an ease of breaking that you will not have with a standard bit. Of course the 3/8" and 1/2" with the 1/2" shaft are going to be a lot stronger, but I will be reserving my use of the 1/4" shaft upward spiral bit only for the most exposed surfaces.

Spiral bits make perfect surface cuts
This review is for upward spiral bits, but the same information applies for a downward spiral bit. Downward spiral bits are designed especially for work where you want to go completely through the material.
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.
***I have come back to add one more comment to this review. When I just said, "use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped straight double flute bits" I doubly advise you to do that. Even with the great results these upward spiral bits give you, I just broke my third 1/4"-1/4" shaft upward spiral bit. I have to conclude that the additional brittleness that an all carbide bit gives you, leads to an ease of breaking that you will not have with a standard bit. Of course the 3/8" and 1/2" with the 1/2" shaft are going to be a lot stronger, but I will be reserving my use of the 1/4" shaft upward spiral bit only for the most exposed surfaces. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (2)

Its the real deal
As the previous reviewer said, this bit comes sharp and stays sharp.I have enjoyed super smooth cuts in flat sawn red oak, quarter sawn white oak, poplar, pine, and walnut.I can't say enough how good this bit is for flush trimming both free hand and in a table.

I highly recommend it!

Keeps going, and going, and going........
And still doesn't need sharpening!!I have used this bit a lot and it is still sharp and doesn't seem like it will ever die!!Fabulous!!5 Stars! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (2)

Its the real deal
As the previous reviewer said, this bit comes sharp and stays sharp.I have enjoyed super smooth cuts in flat sawn red oak, quarter sawn white oak, poplar, pine, and walnut.I can't say enough how good this bit is for flush trimming both free hand and in a table.

I highly recommend it!

Keeps going, and going, and going........
And still doesn't need sharpening!!I have used this bit a lot and it is still sharp and doesn't seem like it will ever die!!Fabulous!!5 Stars! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)