Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (8)

Flute up spiral bits create a perfect surface
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

Upward Spiral Bits create perfect surfaces
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

What's up with a spiral bit ?
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty
• 8" brass back dovetail saw
• 8 teeth per inch for a fast, smooth cut
• Made in England of the finest Sheffield steel
• "TaperGround" to reduce blade binding

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Hand Tools    4. Hand Saws    5. (Handsaws)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-inch diameter, 1/4-inch radius, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000

Reviews (1)

Great quality
I'm slowly going through and replacing many of my cutting tools with Freud products.Every Freud saw blade and router bit has held its edge better than other maker's products.Freud tools cost more, but since I get to leave them on the saw longer, it's worth it to me.I wish they made drill bits! ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-1/4 inch diameter, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Chip-free finish
• 10-inch, 60TPI, MTCG, 5/8 inch arbor
• Ultimate laminate blade for corian, melamine, laminates
• Each tooth has modified triple chip grind
• Zips through solid surface or single & double laminates

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Miter Saw Blades    5. 10-inch Blades    6. (Mitre Saws)    7. (Mitersaws)    8. (Mitresaws)    9. Table Saw Blades    10. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (2)

This is a great bit
I used this bit in a 2.25hp router (and Porter-Cable guide bushing) to make some dovetails with a jig.Cuts in quartersawn white oak were super smooth, with hardly any tear-out.I also used this bit in a router table setup, again with a 2.25hp router, and the cuts were just as impressive.

Overall this is a very high quality bit at a very good price.I highly recommend it!

Freud dovetail bit, 1/2" shank
What can I say?? Fantastic bit, extremely sharp, cut through redquartersawn oak with no chip out at the ends - One of the nicest bits I'veused. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Precision machined for best results
• Premium high speed steel
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Jointers    2. Knives    3. (Knife)    4. Blades    5. Planers    6. Knife    7. (Planners)    8. (Plainers)    9. (Surface Planers)   

Features

• Can be used as replacement or upgrade for many popular router bits
• Highest quality precision parts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/4-inch diameter, 3/4-inch cut depth, 1/4-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Can be used as replacement or upgrade for many popular router bits
• Highest quality precision parts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

This is a skateboard bearing! 5/16" not quite accurate???
If this is a 5/16" modification of a 608 then it might be an excellent bearing for skateboarding, as they use 5/16" axles.
If it's just a plain 608 then oh well, just some incorrect details. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers   

Features

• Laser cut arbor for accurate blade rotation reducing vibration and premature wear
• Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade warp
• Laser cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up keeping the cut true and straight
• Durable micrograin titanium carbide for extreme durability, razor-sharp cuts, and long life
• Tri-metal shock resistant brazing allows carbide tips to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability

Features

• Wooden storage box
• 1/4-inch shank
• 3/8-inch bearing included in this set will convert all five bits to beading bits
• Can be used on hand-held and table-mounted routers
• Cut through a variety of materials including composition, plywood, hardwood, and softwood

Reviews (1)

Nice bits
I am very pleased with this set.These bits cut cleanly and do not burn your workpiece.The finished edge is very smooth.I have used Crafstman and viper bits before, and these are much better.With lesser quality bits, I spent a lot of time carefully going over the edge removing burn marks and smoothing out spintering.Never again. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. Router Bits   

Features

• Wood carry case
• 2+2 raised panel cutter for splinter free panels
• Use on 3/4-inch or 1/2-inch spindle shaper
• Includes 2+2 raised panel cutter, rail & stile, glue joint, door lip bit
• Includes UC-212 panel cutter

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. Router Bits   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty
• 12" brass back tenon saw
• 13 teeth per inch for smooth, accurate cuts
• Made in England of the finest Sheffield steel
• "TaperGround" to reduce blade binding

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Hand Tools    4. Hand Saws    5. (Handsaws)   

Features

• Sheer angle design for clean cutting
• Micro grain carbide for clean cut and durability
• Anti-kickback design for increased safety
• Perma shield coating keeps bit running cool
• Precision balanced for smooth chatter free cuts

Subjects:  1. Routers    2. Router Bits   

Features

• Perfect replacement for Freud EB-090 edge banding trimmer
• Includes knives for flush and bevel trim
• Covered by Freud's limited one year power tool warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Planers    4. Hand Planers    5. (Planners)    6. (Plainers)    7. (Surface Planers)   

Features

• Laser cut arbor for accurate blade rotation reducing vibration and premature wear
• Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade warp
• Laser cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up keeping the cut true and straight
• Durable micrograin titanium carbide for extreme durability, razor-sharp cuts, and long life
• Tri-metal shock resistant brazing allows carbide tips to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability

Reviews (1)

Devil of a blade
I replaced a Freud 80 T ATB blade with this one not long ago.Great performance and clean cuts with minimal splintering or tear out.Check it out. ... Read more

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 3/4-inch diameter, 1-1/4-inch cut depth, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)