Features

• Can be used as replacement or upgrade for many popular router bits
• Highest quality precision parts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

This is a skateboard bearing! 5/16" not quite accurate???
If this is a 5/16" modification of a 608 then it might be an excellent bearing for skateboarding, as they use 5/16" axles.
If it's just a plain 608 then oh well, just some incorrect details. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers   

Features

• Can be used as replacement or upgrade for many popular router bits
• Highest quality precision parts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

This is a skateboard bearing! 5/16" not quite accurate???
If this is a 5/16" modification of a 608 then it might be an excellent bearing for skateboarding, as they use 5/16" axles.
If it's just a plain 608 then oh well, just some incorrect details. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers   

Features

• Laser cut stabilizer vents trap noise and vibration keeping it cool and reducing blade warp
• Laser cut heat expansion slots allow blade to expand due to heat build-up keeping the cut true and straight
• Durable micrograin titanium carbide for extreme durability, razor-sharp cuts, and long life
• Tri-metal shock resistant brazing allows carbide tips to withstand extreme impact for maximum durability
• Laser cut arbor for accurate blade rotation reducing vibration and premature wear

Features

• Thick micrograin carbide tips
• Kickback reducing design
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Shaper Cutters    4. (Knives)    5. (Blades)   

Features

• Laser cut blade bodies and expansion slots
• Kickback reducing design
• Perma-SHIELD coating
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (18)

Excellent combo blade!
I've been using the chrome version of this blade on my old (ancient) Jet contractor's saw for about 3 years and couldn't be happier.It leaves a super-smooth, glue-ready surface when ripping soft- or hardwood stock, and equally fine surfaces on crosscuts.My saw is tuned properly, I use a link belt to reduce vibration, and for ripping always use a featherboard just in front of the blade to maintain proper position of the stock.

I showed this blade off at a recent woodworker's gathering of about 30 people, and they were definitely impressed.Can't imagine that it'd be possible to get a much better surface than the LU84 provides.On my humble 1.5HP saw, though, I don't use it for ripping really thick stock.Firmly believe a good 24-tooth ripping blade is the way to go there.

LU84R011 blade
I purchased this blade a few weeks ago and put it on my new Hitachi C10FL table saw. I've always had good experience with Freud products and this blade isn't much of an exception. It is a hefty piece of steel and overall well made. The carbide teeth are THICK which will allow many resharpenings. It is a GOOD blade, but NOT "excellent". For general purpose use that will give acceptable results it certainly lives up to its manufacturer ratings for various types of cuts in different material. A few important points to note, however. There is splintering on the end of a cross cut, I suspect this is mostly due to the flat top grind raker tooth as my "low budget" Lowes bought Freud combo blade with all ATB teeth leaves a cleaner cross cut. The Teflon coating seems to be more of a hindrance than a blessing. It is not perfectly flat in all places, and seems to clog the anti vibration slots in the blade body. Also, the coating has worn off where the arbor washers contact it - I carefully sanded the coating away in this area. The blade does not vibrate at all, and I feel stiffeners aren't necessary though they can't hurt I'm sure. Although I am not sorry I bought this blade, I will be purchasing either a Forrest blade or two separate blades - rip and crosscut in order to get the perfect result for each type of cut. My recommendation would be to go with the LU84M011 blade instead - doesn't have the unhelpful Teflon coating and is ten dollars cheaper.

Really impressed
Just received this blade and mounted it in my Ryobi BT3100.
Using it to cut 3/4 solid oak, 3/4 oak veneer plywood, pine, both cross cut and ripping, it's hard to imagine anything better. Quiet, splinter free. Now I want a couple more for my chop saw and a spare. Everything I've purchased from Freud has been a worthwhile investment. And NO this has not been a paid commercial :-). ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Circular Saw Blades   

Features

• Precision machined for best results
• Premium high speed steel
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Great Knives, just wish I could order more than one set
I have placed several orders for these knives, two sets each order.They only seem to keep one set in stock so it takes some time to receive the blades.I just wish that I could order a few sets and have them shipped sooner, a service issue not a product issue.The knives are great and at this price it does not pay to have them re-sharpen, just buy new. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Jointers    2. Knives    3. (Knife)    4. Blades    5. Planers    6. Knife    7. (Planners)    8. (Plainers)    9. (Surface Planers)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (1)

Good joints, fiddly setup
Honestly I'd give this 5 stars because of the nice joints it makes, but it loses one for absence of documentation.Normally I would not expect documentation with a router bit but this one is pretty tricky to use and should come with instructions.

First, nowhere in the packaging or on Amazon's site does it tell you that the drawer front MUST be 3/4" and the side can be either 3/4" or 1/2".

Second, it comes with no instructions and the setup is not straightforward.I found good instructions on the web site of a different manufacturer of drawer lock bits.

Third, nowhere is it mentioned that one has to use a sacrificial zero clearance fence when making a drawer lock joint in cabinet grade plywood.I used a spare piece of poplar.My tip: get the height set using one sacrificial fence, then cut a new one for the cleanest joints, because it is crucial to have zero clearance between the top of the bit and the fence.Even 1/16" will result in significant tear-out.

Last, because the setup is so fiddly, I do not recommend you use this bit for just a couple joints.If you are going to do a run of drawers its worth the effort, but not for one or two. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1-21/32-inch diameter, 1-3/32-inch height,1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Wood case
• FIve piece cabinet door set
• 1/2-inch shank
• Use with table mounted router
• Includes 99-511 panel bit

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. Router Bits   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 1/2-inch diameter, 1 1/2-inch cut depth, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• For use in boring machines and drill presses only
• Freud micrograin carbide for long life
• Shear angle design produces superior finish
• Designed for accurate boring
• Wing and spur cutters prevent bottom side tear out

Subjects:  1. Drill Bits    2. Boring Bits    3. (Drils)    4. Drill Presses    5. Drills   

Features

• Impervious to chemical attack
• 3/8-inch diameter, 1-1/4-inch cut depth, 1/2-inch shank
• Ground carbide with titanium for long life
• Anti-kickback
• Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Thick micrograin carbide tips
• Kickback reducing design
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Shaper Cutters    4. (Knives)    5. (Blades)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (3)

Works Great!
The depth of cut is 1", look at the image.

Information not provided
I need to know the specific depth of cut.This product does not list it.

BIG ROUTER BIT
This is one big block of steel. The picture shown is of a much smaller bit. The 50-138 is 2"x2" and is a handful. The carbide is fine grain and razor sharp. It runs true with no vibration. I used it hand held to trim some doors in my home. It cut through them like a knife through butter. The directions recommend router table use only, but with a variable speed Bosch router I had no problems. It does take a few extra seconds to spend down due to centrifugal force. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .25-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/4)   

Features

• Thin kerf uses less power
• Kickback reducing design
• Perma-SHIELD coating
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Circular Saw Blades    5. 8.25-inch Blades    6. (1/4)   

Features

• Kickback reducing design
• Individually computer balanced
• Precision ground for the smoothest cuts
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Reviews (8)

Flute up spiral bits create a perfect surface
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

Upward Spiral Bits create perfect surfaces
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them.

What's up with a spiral bit ?
This review is going to sound funny from someone who broke two 1/4" shaft 1/4" upward spiral bits. In plain words, I wouldn't be without them. As a matter of fact I am adding a 3/8" to my 1/4" and 1/2" bits. When people use the phrase the "break in period" take that literally when you use spiral bits. The problem is that it is not designed for freehand use. If you plunge it deep and try to freehand it into some wood, the edges can grab and instantly create a ricocheting effect, which will whip into an instant frenzy and snap the bit. These bits are designed to be used in a table, with a fence guiding the work against the bit, or in a jig to make mortises for example. They are ideal for use with a plunge router with a three step adjustable turret. Also great with a regular hand held, with successive depth adjustments. Fully burying the bit and going for it is not advisable even in a table.
Another consideration is although these bits are solid carbide, I doubt they are the same grade in hardness of the standard double flute straight bits with welded on tips, that are so popular. So they shouldn't last as long.
So after all of that, why buy an upward spiral bit? Simply this: If your creating a pocket, like a mortise, even though you are doing it in successively deeper passes, it will create a perfectly smooth surface, both on the walls, and the bottom of the pocket. If you are creating an opening all the way through your work piece, it will create a perfectly smooth wall.
When making mortises, it is possible, with dial caliper level measuring, to make a mortise so perfect that you almost don't need glue. You may want to for example use doweled pegs only to hold the joint. If you were doing heirloom antique level joinery with no metal hardware, such a joint would be beneficial. What is often done is the mortise is made with a machine or fixture with a chisel and drill bit at the core, making a pocket that is uneven in its edges, and even more so at the base. You may say who cares, I use urethane glues, which foam up to fill the gaps, and that would be a valid argument. What this spiral bit gives you is the option of building a jig that will fit a range of wood sizes that will give you instant mortises that are perfect, with less time, less effort, and perfectly made, and a lot less expensive than a dedicated machine. Wood mating surfaces can be done to perfection, instead of the standard glue up, and then having to sand out the surface irregularities. I am not knocking mortise and tenon machines, they are great, and quickly usable, because mortise and tenon joints don't show so they don't need to be perfect aesthetically.
One other thing worth mentioning, is that it is a good idea to get upward spiral bits with the same size shaft as the head of the bit. For example a 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit, and a 1/4" shaft with a 1/4" bit. That way you can make very deep mortises that go beyond the depth of the bit surface. So why am I buying a 3/8" spiral bit as well? Because I needed a 3/8" slot in the face of a project and wanted to do it with the spiral bit that I didn't have.
I just made some custom router table fences, and I needed to make a 1/4" slot along the backing board of the fence. I wanted it to be even and smooth and look great without any tear out on the edges, so I used the 1/4" spiral bit. Now I have exposed slots that are perfect. That is what a spiral bit does.
I have routers made by Porter Cable, Fein, Makita and several Bosch models, and each of them receives, both spiral bit size shafts of 1/4" and 1/2" effortlessly. They slide in without any play and do not bind on the way in or the way out. Knowing that router collets have a safety factor of needing a second tough release on unscrewing the collet is key. Additionally the Freud routers were having some problems with the bit fit, some say it is because they were being shipped with metric collets. Be that as it may, these spiral bits go into your router without any size-fit problems. I have never had a problem with any of the Freud router bits fitting into any one of my routers.
In conclusion, I would use the heck out of your standard carbide tipped double straight flute bits, and save these upward spiral bits for your exposed surfaces, or when you want a perfect surface-fit. Highly recommended, I wouldn't want to be without them. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Routers    4. .50-inch Shank Bits    5. (1/2)   

Features

• 10 inch 60TPI, 5/8 inch arbor
• Excellent for finish work
• Expansion slots cut vibration
• Anti-kickback
• Thin kerf, flat tooth, long life

Reviews (3)

Incredibly smooth cutting
I installed one of these in a Delta 36-225 (a "bargain" CMS) and have since made hundreds of cuts in oak moulding and stock up to 2"x6". Results have been uniformly superb. Even at extreme bevels, the saw moves easily through the wood, with the cut surfaces glass-smooth. With this blade, I don't see much need for the 80-tooth; cuts are as good as I'll ever need. Likewise, I hardly bother with the 40-tooth, since with the thin kerf this cuts plenty fast through anything I put to it. All in all, this has got to rank as one of the better purchases I have made.

This blade produces a glass smooth surface
I installed this blade on my radial arm saw. I sighted along the blade as it came to a slow stop, to be sure it was mounted true, with no wobble. I had to loosen the nut, turn the blade slightly, and retighten a few times to get it perfect. Without a blade stabilizer, or not bothering to check the trueness of the spin, no blade will perform properly. I never have to do this with the table saw, just the radial arm saw. Once trued up, it cut like butter, and the surface was really like glass.
I also bought the Forrest II blade when I read the reviews in this months Fine Woodworking magazine, they rated it as number one, and Frued was number 2. The top 1 and 2 out of all of the blades, not bad. Fine Woodworking mentioned that their wasn't any tear out. Well I got those same exact results with the Freud. No tear out at all. The magazine rated the Freud as excellent in smooth cut, but only very good in tear outs. My experience is that when ripping 3/4" material, this blade produced a smooth cut without any saw marks. Nice enough to mount as an exposed edge on your project. Of course, a true fence is critical.
With the flawless results I got with the Freud, I am wondering why I paid three times the price for the Forrest. The Forrest Woodworker II is designed for Table Saws. The Freud is advertised on the package as being ideal for Table Saws, Radial Arm saws, and Miter and or Compound Miter Saws. I am keeping the Forrest for the table saw, I have spoken to Forrest owners who love their blade, even a year after using it. They love not having to change the blade for different kinds of cuts, and state it is still sharp after a year. I'm expecting the same kind of results from the Freud. Both of these blades have 5/8" arbors, and are a 1/8" thin kerf. The Forrest has a thinner 3/32" model as well, but some of the reviews indicate some inaccuracy on that model.
I highly recommend buying this Freud blade.

It is hard to find a blade that will cut plywood, and melamine, and do crosscuts, all excellently,and do rip cuts good as well. This one does all of them. To see Freuds blade use recommendations chart, click on the blade picture at the top of the ad.
I installed the Freud on my table saw, and got the same excellent results. So I bought a second one of these Freuds. I like the 60 teeth. Commonly the 50 tooth crosses the line between great ripping and crosscutting. This 60 tooth appears to do the job beautifully, and still give you that extra smoothness that comes with the additional teeth. The Forrest is still covered in the protective rubber dip. Some day, I will break out the Forrest II, I just have a hard time even thinking about taking this Freud off. How can you top perfect? Hope this was helpful.

EXCELLENT
This is an excellent blade it'svery sharp and produces a finish quality cut.You can cross cut anything and the results are always perfect.The expansion slots the thin kerf and the carbide teeth balance out nicely resulting in an excellent blade.This one is worthy of re-sharpening...eventually. Now get out there and cut some wood. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Miter Saw Blades    5. 10-inch Blades    6. (Mitre Saws)    7. (Mitersaws)    8. (Mitresaws)    9. Table Saw Blades    10. (Tablesaws)   

Features

• Ideal job site blade
• Super thin kerf uses less power
• Kickback reducing design
• Covered by Freud's limited lifetime warranty

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Circular Saw Blades   

Features

• 8-1/2-inch diameter
• 48 teeth
• 5/8-inch arbor
• Five degree negative hook prevents blade from being too aggressive

Reviews (6)

Decent Blade for crosscutting and plywood
I'd give this a 4.5 if I could.I only rates a 4 for crosscutting.It does a nice job, but nothing outstanding.For sheetgoods, however, it makes extremely nice cuts without any tearout.I've cut baltic birch plywood, MDF, MDO and perfect cuts every time.For these, I'd give it a 5.

Dang that's sweet!
I put this blade on my Craftsman radial arm saw and it completely
changed the way I feel about that saw.Now the thing cuts
like a hot knife through butter.The cross cuts leave end
grain so smooth you'd swear you were feeling a sanded surface
with the grain.Ok, maybe not that smooth, but still, pretty
darn smooth.I haven't tried any other fancy or expensive
blades, but this blade put my old cross cutting blades to
shame.Highly recommended.

Cuts great but...
This blade makes cuts as smooth as glass and does not tend to splinter wood as some other blades do. The only problem is that sometimes it leaves red marks from the tefon on the piece of wood after it is cut. Makes you wonder if it is worth the exta cash. ... Read more

Subjects:  1. Freud    2. (Frued)    3. Blades    4. Miter Saw Blades    5. (Mitre Saws)    6. (Mitersaws)    7. (Mitresaws)    8. Table Saw Blades    9. (Tablesaws)